111 Picketts Dam Rd

Telephone: (888) 887-3763
Fax: (502)834-7112

New Grass Turf Care

IMMEDIATELY after installation, water your new turf-sod to the point that the soil under is wet to a depth of approximately 3 inches ("spongy" to walk on). This should be maintained for 10- 14 days. Depending on the time of year, you may need to water daily or less frequent to maintain the "spongy" effect.

• Approximately 14 days after installation, you should be able to mow. Check by trying to pull up a roll of sod- If it is sticking to the soil... you should be safe. Remember to mow the first few times higher than you normally would, and gradually work to the height you prefer, Do not cut more than a third (1/3) off otherwise you will stress and possibly damage your turf-sod. We suggest, if possible, to bag the clippings the first few times you mow. This will allow for the grass to concentrate on root development vs. decomposing the clippings. After the first few cuttings, clippings mulched are a benefit to the turf. Also if you mow the first few times, try to make large turns or turn off the new turf so as to not move it or mark it with the tires.

• Keep your turf-sod watered. Do not rely on Mother Nature exclusively. You should have about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water on your lawn per week, under normal conditions, to keep your sod healthy.

To keep your lawn healthy and green you will need to establish a program to feed your lawn and control weeds, maintaining the care provided while the turf-sod was grown. We suggest the following schedule:

Early Spring (Late March to mid-April) - Use a weed and feed type fertilizer, available at most home and garden centers, This fertilizer should include a broadleaf and pre-emergent crabgrass control.

Summer (late June, early July) - You can apply a light application of fertilizer with a high Nitrogen content ( the first number on the bag), and if your crabgrass was not controlled in the early spring use a post-emergent control for crabgrass. This will help maintain a deep green color.

Fall (late September, early October) - Apply an application of fertilizer and weed control. This should have a broadleaf and dandelion control to help prevent spring weeds.

Winter (late November, early December) - Apply fertilizer high in Nitrogen (i,e. 46-0-0). This will help promote vigorous root activity throughout the winter which will strengthen your root zone and promote a healthy and early spring green up. As an extra measure, this can be done again in January,

To keep your Turf- Sod looking Superior, proper watering, feeding and weed control are a must !

This information is for general maintenance, Specific types of turf-sod will vary a little. The next area outlines each type of turf-sod STSF offers.

Kentucky Bluegrass:

This fine textured turf-sod is the most common used. Our special blend of seed is used to help resist many of the common problems bluegrass typically has. The previous guidelines are appropriate for this type grass.

Typical problems: Very poor traffic tolerance, not adaptable to medium or heavy shade.. and without water during drought periods will turn brown,

Mowing height should be about 1 1/2 to 2 inches. You can keep it lower but without appropriate watering it will brown and stress easily. Do not fertilize during high humid periods in the late summer. This can result in some disease to the turf.

Turf-Tall Fescue:

This is the most widely adapted turfgrass for use in Kentucky. Our special blend of seed allows for this turf-sod to do extremely well in full sun or medium shade and in heavy clay to sandy soil conditions. Areas of high traffic, the need for a drought tolerant and weed resistant grass make this a superior choice.

The previous guidelines should be adapted as follows:
• Fescue will adapt to drier soil, so moisture could be 1/2 to 3/4 inches per week.
• Fescue does not require as much fertilization as Bluegrass. Typically the level of Nitrogen in the fertilizer can be less than that of Bluegrass, Another way is to not apply as much per square ft. as you would for Bluegrass.

Typical problems: Requires more frequent mowing than Kentucky Bluegrass, typically with a mowing height of 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches. The fescue does not spread as much as the bluegrass root system. You may need to overseed from time to time with a hand seeder if areas die out over the winter.

Bluegrass/Fescue Mix:

This Turf-Sod is composed of the above two types. This gives a very adaptable turf that can be used in areas of high traffic, full sun or shaded areas, varied soil conditions and has the ability to spread for filling areas and continued root expansion. Many times this is the selection for sports and athletic fields.

This turf requires similar mowing to that of Fescue, mowing height can be lower (2 to 3 inches) and the fertilization can mirror the Fescue, but if the turf-sod is not as deep a green, a bit more nitrogen could be used.